If you look out from our bedroom window you will see an expansive valley flanked on the other side by hill with a monastery on top. Literally just behind that hill is Bethlehem. Forgoing the 100$ tours run by local companies, we got up early, headed to the Arab sheruts near Damascus gate, paid our six shekels (2$), got cosy with a bunch of Palestinians and some backpackers and made the twenty minute treck to where no Israeli is allowed to go. No kidding. There was a big sign on the way into Bethlehem reminding them it was illegal for Israeli Citizens to enter the city. 
We did the necessary visit to the Church of the Nativity, but meh, I think I am getting all churched out. It was a big church. Ancient Floor. Crusader paintings. Lots of lamps. Cave beneath. Nuf Said. 
But the city and the market were fabulous. Saturday is the busiest day and it was lively and vibrant. The Markets of Bethlehem seemed markedly more colourful than those of Jerusalem. Perhaps it is because in contrast to the sedate and humble colours encouraged by Judaism, the Muslim and Christian Arab women seem to show their humility by wearing a lot of clothes, but are not limited in their colour pallate. 
Since the wall went up a few years ago, the economy in Bethlehem has tanked. Most work is in Jerusalem and getting work permits and going though daily security checks is difficult. Compared to the Arab Market in the old city of Jerusalem, the market in Bethlehem reflects the depressed economy. Although full of people and vibrant, most of the wares were used: piles of used clothes, housewares and used shoes were for sale. I also figured out why the churches and mosques of Jerusalem don't have pigeon problems. Live pigeons were for sale next to rabbits and chickens. Yummy, Pigeon. Right about now, my mom is freaking out reading this. My daughter went WHERE? But Palestinians are extremely friendly people and other than an annoying pushy "tour guide" near where the sherut dropped us off, everyone politely answered out questions for directions. In a crowded market in a town that is trying to do their very best to keep the foreign tourists coming.... well there wasn't much to worry about as a Canadian. If I were Israeli, or James was a kippa-wearing Jew, I wouldn't have made the trip.
We stopped for a yummy lunch of felafel and shawarma at a place full of Muslims but was owned by Arab Christians (we noted the cross and the Madonna and child above the counter. The felafel dude was very impressed by James' ten words of Arabic and said so in fluent English. Then we hopped back on a sherut. Five minutes later at the wall we got out of the sherut, stood in a line, had our passports and visas scrutinized by a 20 year old with an assault rifle and got back in the sherut. Palestinians are also very photogenic people I discovered. I took lots of photos from the hip and posted them up on facebook if you are interested.
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