

I have been slow on describing Good Friday in order to give
James' Science paper as much time as possible as top item. (Yes, another shameless plug).
On Friday morning, James and I hoofed it to the old city without coffee to be there for 6:30 am. We were a little late and as we rushed around a corner, were met by a crowd of 150 or so Lutherans, Anglicans, Episcopalians (American Anglicans), Presbyterians and, get this, Arab Lutherans. Besides the suspiciously large numbers of fair people, my religious compatriots were easy to pick out by the weak and slightly shy singing.
We made our way along the narrow passage of the Via Dolorosa, which legend states is the route Jesus carried his cross to be crucified. Along the way there are stations where different events are said to have happened, such as each of his falls or when Veronica wiped his face. The stops are marked with shrines on the side of the wall or itsy bitsy little churches that seemed to have been hewn from the old city rather than built.
At each stop one of the ten or so Reverends with accents from all over the world did a reading and a prayer. James proudly told me later that he thinks "our Rev", a real booming Scotsman, had the best voice of them all.
We ended not at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which is run by the Catholics, Orthodox, Armenians, Coptics and the Ethiopians, but next door at the Church of the Redeemer, which is run by the Lutherans but takes in every one else.
Why the early hour? Probably to avoid the open stores with the shameless hawkers and the crowds of the other brands of Christianity doing the same thing throughout the day. As it was, there were people singing in French and Latin behind our group, we passed a group of nuns, and shortly after we finished James and I had to stop for a procession of about 50 monks followed by 30 priests followed by 100 or so people.
I had been expecting to see people carrying giant life size crosses and performing painfully acetic pilgrimages, but perhaps it doesn't actually happen that often or we were too early risers for the crazy folks with Jerusalem Syndrome. The morning was quiet and, well, quite pleasant.
True to form, James claims he has filled his church quota until Christmas and I went to Easter Sunday service solo this morning.